Page 25 - IB March 2018 Edition
P. 25

Culture




          a streak of rebellion.”

           Traditional Protocol  Fiji Islands
            When Biuvakalolo-
          ma decided to return
          to Moce to bring back
          another drua to start
          his tourism venture in
          1993, he was told to
          wait until the sea was
          cleared for travel.
            A  taboo  had  been
          imposed in the waters
          of the Tovata confeder-
          acy following the death
          of Fiji’s then President,
          the Tui Cakau, Ratu Sir
          Penaia Ganilau, at the
          Walter Reed Hospital in
          the US on 16 December,
          1993.
            Ratu  Penaia  was
          head  of  the  cultural
          Tovata confederacy of
          which  the  islands  of
          Lau are part of.
            As  part  of  the  tra-
          ditional  protocol  and   The map shows the route JImione Paki took  when he sailed from Moce to Suva on his drua (inset: Top right) where he settled with on
                                 the tip of the peninsula at Korova in Suva. (inset: above left ).
          sign of respect for the   The route Metuisela Biuvakaloloma (inset left) is believed to have taken when he defied traditional protocol on his fateful voyage in 1993.
          paramount chief of the
          confederacy, mariners were warned to stay   It was the last place from where Biu-  tried to travel to Kadavu to retrieve the
          clear while the chiefly cortege travelled to   vakaloloma was seen.   drua but their father advised against it.
          Somosomo in Taveuni, Fiji’s fourth larg-  No one knows what happened to him   “My father said the drua was his coffin
          est island.                         that day.                         and for us to let it be at Buliya.”
            On the night of 28 December, 1993, Biu-  Cama and Biuvakaloloma’s son, Fu-  According to Marika Biaukula of Buliya,
          vakaloloma defied the taboo and set sail   luna, who was only three at that time,   the canoe was pulled to the village from
          for Suva to start his drua cruise business.  believe his defiance of traditional protocol   where it had beached. Over the years, it
            It was mistake, he would never learn   cost him his life.           disintegrated. All that’s left of it today is
          from.                                “We can only imagine what happened   part of the bow.
            The next morning the government ves-  to my brother. He could have fallen off   Being blessed with many sons, Paki
          sel, Tovata, left Suva carrying the fallen   the drua because of the bad weather   never lost hope of the dream he shared
          chief.                              conditions or something worse could have   with his lost son.
            The Fiji Times reported that it was only   happened,” Cama, now 73, said.  Cama moved to Korova in 1996 and
          fitting that a school of sharks appeared   “Maybe the sharks attacked him.”  helped his father teach the younger gen-
          suddenly to accompany the funeral flotilla   Fuluna said his father breached rules   eration
          that Wednesday.                     that  indigenous  Fijians  should  have   The children at the swampland con-
            The event was witnessed by the thou-  observed.                     tinued to learn the art of sailing the drua
          sands of mourners who came to bid fare-  “When there’s a taboo at sea, we should   and camakau.
          well to the chief on his final journey home.  always observe that. The land and ocean   The drua and camakau he brought from
            The sharks - regarded as the traditional   are inter-linked.”       Moce in 1991 had started to rot.
          custodians of the Tui Cakau resurfaced   “Our forefethares respected that and   Cama kept their tradition alive and built
          during the ceremonial 21-gun salute in   our people have always relied on the   several more camakau at Korova the fol-
          front of the Tovuto, which carried the for-  ocean for their survival.  lowing years.
          mer president of Fiji’s coffin to Somosomo   “Our stories revolve around it, our life   Eleven years after he lost his son at sea,
          where he was laid to rest.          too. The ocean sustains us and gives   Paki decided to return to Lau and return
            The Fiji Times reported that the seas   us life and we should always link them   with another drua to Suva.
          were rough as the Tovuto sailed towards   because they always have been.”  But  the  ghosts  of  1993  returned  to
          Taveuni.                             Several days later, the family at Korova   haunt the family.
            Cama said from the accounts of relatives   heard a report that a canoe had beached   r ilaitia.turagabeci@gmail.com
          on Moce and Moala, another island about   at Buliya, an island off the Kadavu main-
          169km away towards Suva, the sea condi-  land, 313km from Moce.         Next month: Curse haunts the
          tions were the same.                 Some of Biuvakaloloma’s brothers later   canoe dream


                                                                                              Islands Business, March 2018  25
   20   21   22   23   24   25   26   27   28   29   30